Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
